Changuu Island was used as a penitentiary for rebel slaves by the sultans from the
1860s until the end of the slave trade. After which the British began building a
prison on the island under the guidance of First Governor, Lloyd Matthews. This was
completed in 1894. However, the ‘prison’ was only ever used as a quarantine center
for possible yellow-fever victims, and even then was hardly used as that. Don’t be
deceived by the word ‘prison’ in the island’s English name, the significance of the
island, like so many of Zanzibar’s cultural sites, has been made little of and the
‘prison that never was’ now houses a resort and restaurant.
The island is a popular day-trip destination from Stone Town. About 20 minutes from
the city by traditional Dhow sailing boat, the island offers excellent snorkeling,
a beautiful and quiet white sandy beach, giant turtle sanctuary and coral rag forest.
What to do on Prison Island
One can take the footpath through the woodland, spotting birds, bats, various butterflies
and duiker antelope (so long as you tread quietly). The Aldabra Giant Tortoise sanctuary
is a major tourist lure. The turtles are not indigenous. Many of those on the island
today are descended from 4 that were presented to Lloyd Matthews by the governor
of the Seychelles. They are magisterial creatures, weighing in at an average of 200
kg some are as old as 100 years. For TSh 1,000 you can feed them, but watch out for
their snapping beaks.
Other marine life is also reasonably rich and Changuu provides good snorkeling.
It is by no means the most extensive or varied snorkeling spot off the coast of
Zanzibar, but being so close to Stone Town and so easily accessible makes it ideal
for those who want to see ‘under the sea’ a little while on a city break.
The island’s restaurant, Matthews, is good and well-renowned. A meal and drinks will
not be as cheap as at some spots on Zanzibar, but at around USD 20 a head is by no
means extortionate. This is especially so considering the restaurant’s charming atmosphere
and good sea view.
Getting to Prison Island
Numerous tour operators run trips to Changuu; see Excursions page for details. These
will usually cost between USD 30 and USD 40 for a half day, including USD 6 island
entry fee and snorkelling equipment. Full day trips may also be arranged for those
who want more than round 2-3 hours on the island. The island has its own lodge for
anyone wishing to stay overnight. If you wish to travel independently to the island
you might talk to the boat-boys under the Big Tree on Mizingani Road. It should cost
around USD 40 to hire boat and captain to the island and back plus USD 6 entry fee
per person.